A physio's guide to getting the right bike fit

By Bianca Broadbent, Physiotherapist & Bike Fitter @ Tudor Cycling

Bianca hosting the fizik bike fitting workshop at the 2026 Hive Ride

You've invested in a decent bike, decent kit, and decent training yet after every long ride you're left with sore knees, a stiff back, or hands that have gone completely numb. Sound familiar? The culprit is almost always the same: bike fit. Getting your position dialled in is the single highest-leverage change you can make to ride further, faster, and pain-free.

Start at the bottom — literally

Foot problems are the most overlooked source of cycling pain. Numbness or tingling in your toes is usually a cleat position issue. Moving cleats rearward shifts pressure away from the metatarsal heads and dramatically reduces that "going to sleep" sensation. A wider-fitting shoe makes a surprisingly large difference too.

⚡Foot numbness: Move cleats back · wider shoe · check saddle height

↔Outside foot pain: Wider shoe · insoles to reduce pronation load

🔄Whole foot numb: Shoes probably overtightened or slightly too big

↕Foot moving in shoe: Shoe too big — try a smaller or narrower size

Choosing the right pedal system matters too. Road cyclists tend to benefit from a larger cleat platform (Shimano SPD-SL or Speedplay both offer high surface area and high adjustability), while MTB and off-road riders generally prioritise walkability with SPD or Crank Bros.

Sit bones, pubic ramus, and your saddle

As you rotate forward into an aggressive position, weight shifts from the sit bones (ischial tuberosities) toward the pubic ramus — a bony structure not designed for sustained pressure. Understanding where your weight lands helps explain almost every saddle complaint.

Quick fix guide

Pressure at the front of the saddle? Lower the saddle and raise the cockpit.

Rocking side to side? Your saddle is probably too high, too narrow, or your cranks are too long.

If you feel a "pinching" sensation on the inside of the sit bone, the saddle may be too narrow — or, counterintuitively, too wide, with the saddle wings loading the wrong area.

Cockpit height plays into this too: a drop that's too aggressive forces rotation that redistributes pressure in uncomfortable ways.

There's a good chance your cranks are too long

This is the most common finding in professional bike fits and the one most riders have never considered. Long cranks increase hip flexion at the top of the pedal stroke, compressing the hip joint and causing everything from knee pain to lower back tightness. Here's a quick reference by rider height:

Rider height	Recommended crank length
Up to 152 cm	145–155 mm
152–163 cm	155–160 mm
163–170 cm	160–165 mm
170–178 cm	165–170 mm
Over 178 cm	170–172.5 mm

Hand pain and reach problems are fixable

Too much weight through the hands usually means the saddle is too high, your reach is too long, or you need to raise the bars. If you can't comfortably reach the brake levers, try adjusting bar angle and lever position before assuming you need a new stem. Pressure on the underside of the hand is almost always solved by rotating the hoods upward or shortening the cockpit.

"A good bike fit isn't a luxury — it's the foundation everything else is built on. Get it right once, and the gains compound with every kilometre."

Bianca Broadbent is a physiotherapist and accredited bike fitter. Follow her at @bianca__broadbent